The Beginning of the Day
The question is where to start – so I guess I’ll start at the beginning of the day. For me, it began with a test of flexibility and the need to reconfigure the day’s activities. Rain is ever present in Guatemala during the summer months, and this day was no exception. For our group, the rain was a nuisance, for the people we were helping it is life changing. Rain runs into homes; people are soaked as they travel by foot or in the back of pickup trucks; work can not be done, so money is not made, food is not bought; mudslides wash out roads and homes…
Chickens
As we eat our breakfast of pancakes and beans or eggs and fruit, we contemplate the options.
Then a call from Sharon, one of the founders of Mayan Families, helps us figure out the start of the day.
The chickens are on their way to the office and we should head over there first.
When we get there women and children fill the area.
There are dogs walking around.
Containers to hold the chickens they are hoping to receive consist of pieces of cloth, cardboard boxes, woven baskets, plastic baskets, bags, and whatever container can be utilized.
Our kids are able to serve the women in such a simple way, but at the same time meaningful way.
First, they weigh out chicken feed that is given to each woman.
Then the real fun begins as we all try our hand at catching chickens.
I have always heard laughter is good for a person – and I am sure we brought some humor to the indigenous women and children!
Personally, I enjoyed watching Josie embrace the chance of handing out the chickens. Trevor decided he wasn’t so sure about doing this part of the adventure, and well, Allison was still a little nervous around these flapping creatures with big feet and beaks.
Though it was a little chilly, at this point…it wasn’t raining. Yeah! Our plans had been to go to El Barranco on Wednesday, but due to the rain we hadn’t been able to. There are two main roads out of Panajachel, either past the beautiful waterfall and through Sololá or through San Andres to the Pan American Highway. To go through Sololá it takes about 40 minutes to get to El Barranco, the village we wanted to visit. The other route takes about 1.5 hours. However, a mudslide and a boulder the size of a large car blocked the short way up the mountains. On Thursday, it was still blocked, but I made the decision to head onto El Barranco via the long route. I had fallen in love with the village of El Barranco the year before, and I wanted everyone to be able to experience it too.
The Pick-Up Truck Ride
The trucks were loaded with playground equipment and supplies to make 6 ONIL stoves. Most of the group was going in the vans, but I saw my moment as the guys all loaded into one of the trucks with the stoves! It is the funniest thing, because here in the States I wouldn’t dream of riding in the back of a pick-up truck, but I absolutely love the experience in Guatemala! There is something about being out in the fresh air and “feeling” the experience of Guatemala. You are closer to the nature. You are more like the people in the country hosting you…as they travel crammed in the back of pickup trucks regularly. People are more willing to engage with us – even if it is a simple wave or smile. Windows do not cloud the beauty of the landscape. You can breath in the fresh air, but you also smell the diesel buses and the smoke coming from cooking fires.
As we climbed into the mountains (at 6,000-7,000 ft. above sea level), away from the lake (at 5,100 ft. above sea level)– we had some absolutely astonishing views that pictures can’t do justice.
We truly felt we were going into the clouds.
The temperature dropped probably close to 20 degrees.
We saw endless fields of crops all worked by hand tools and machetes…many on very steep mountains.
All of this was our view as we sat on concrete blocks to be used in the ONIL stoves - on very bumpy roads.
(Ouch!) We saw mud slides and a thin pedestrian bridge built over the gully to be used when the road was blocked by mud.
(Yikes!) We were within 10 feet of sheep, goats, cows, pigs, horses, and an endless number of dogs walking along the side of the road. (Interesting!) We passed markets used by the indigenous people and tourists alike full of color and craftsmanship.
(Salivating to Shop!) And during this time I reflected on sad news that I had received just prior to the truck ride…knowing I was going to need to share it with my parents and mother-in-law very soon…
As we turned off the main road…we were quickly immersed into the cornfields. Bright green stalks surrounded us. When we came to a stop, there was a main path through the cornfield with a small tienda to buy drinks at. Otherwise, it was a maze of paths to get to the different homes amongst the milpa (cornfield). So, off we started walking… What a difference this village is from San Antonio Palopo that has houses literally clinging to the mountainside or from Panajachel, which is really a fairly flat little “touristy” town.
Karina & Clementina
And here was my bright spot of the day…and probably of the week.
This little girl, her mother, and her younger brother warmed my heart.
Upon leaving the cornfield, we walked into a compound of rooms lived in by multiple families.
It was snuggled in amongst the endless rows of corn.
There were chickens, turkeys, dogs, kittens - all resting in the shade of the corn…that would wander into the compound as they chose.
But most importantly, we met Karina… a little girl who had turned 5 just four days before we were there. Kristi, one of my travel companions, and I spent the morning with this beautiful family. Though I am not fluent in Spanish, we were able to communicate the basics. We learned they had one bedroom and one bed for the 4 of them to sleep in. Though the bedroom was simple…it was not cluttered with possessions…it was clean. It was evident the pride that the family had in their home. At times, I can only wish for my home to be as neat as they had theirs.
We met Karina’s abuela (grandmother), her amazing mother (Clementina), and her precocious brother, Elvis.
Elvis was 2-3 years old, and just like a child here in the States.
He could be found getting into mischief, whether it was breaking the candles for the dance celebration later in the day, wetting his pants (no diapers), or “roughly” playing with the puppy.
Worlds apart from the US in so many ways, but at the same time – so similar.
Karina was lucky – her mother clearly loves her and appears to be such a wonderful role model for her children. There were globos rojos y morados (red & purple balloons) hanging from the roofline to mark the celebration of Karina’s 5th birthday. In a country of poverty, it is not unusual for families to not even know the birthdays of their children...let alone mark it with a celebration. Little Karina, with her two little piggy tails that stuck straight out from her head, was full of joy. I have to imagine it came from a caring family in some part. She sang many songs to us during our 2 hour visit filling our hearts with joy…which on this day I really needed. She allowed us to take her for rides on our backs. We danced…we played clapping games…we smiled and laughed…a reminder that there is a universal commonality of humanity.
Elvis and Karina found any pot or plastic tub they could find. There was quite a variety. They placed them on the concrete and dirt floors. They found a stick…and then the music started for us. It is an interesting dichotomy…we have clean homes and water, but sometimes don’t want our kids putting our pots and pans on the floor…or we buy expensive plastic drums in the toy store or Wal-Mart. In this area of the country, there are no large stores to go buy these items. There are not many possessions. There is not clean water to easily wash the items, but there is the sound of love and happiness…and a mother not seemingly concerned. In all, I think I saw about 3 toys at this house, but they have their creativity…
As a teacher at one of the preschools told us on this trip, there is no way for them to express their gratitude…so they do it with their smiles. I think everyone of us on the trip would quickly tell you how powerful those smiles are though! We received an extra gift at Clementina & Karina’s home. At some point we found ourselves being taken to an oasis in the midst of this cornfield. What we found was a beautiful little garden of flowers. There was a bright fabric wrapping the wooden fence in front of the flowers, and before we knew it we were being showered with beautiful flowers by Karina, Elvis, & Clementina. Again, another similarity – as my own children like to pick me flowers at home…and I always enjoy! J
During this time, Clementina and I were able to communicate in Spanish on a very basic level, and I learned that her husband was working in the milpa that surrounded the home. He works the field with simple tools and a machete…there are no machines. I have since learned that he has a problem with his kidneys, and sometimes works as a teacher when there is work. He makes approximately $26 a week…less than $1 a day. It is estimated that a family of 4 requires $150 to cover food for a month… Electricity is $11 per month and the water cost is $4 per month.
In reality, this family is living in poverty; but they are rich in many ways…most of all by the love that envelops this home. I have heard many times over the years that Guatemala is a land of contrasts. I have seen this over the years and firmly believe it. Clothes are a basic need that we have. Many times in Guatemala, the clothes are utilized way past the point we would have deemed them unsuitable for even play clothes and given them to Goodwill. Elvis probably has few clothes, but there was a “carefree nature to life” in the fact he was allowed to just go out and play like a child should…without worrying about how dirty he was getting…
However, on the other end of the spectrum, the traditional clothes are hand woven and absolutely beautiful. Each huipile (top) and corte (skirt) has a distinct pattern for the village that the women live in. There is pride in their heritage and handiwork. Many times the huipiles are woven without patterns…so you know there must be a high level of skill and ability. On the other hand, balance this with the fact that so many do not have the gift of a school education. Clementina showed us a piece of embroidery she was working on. It will wind up being a falta (belt) when she is finished. Though their clothes are necessary items, they are also a sign of their heritage and truly a piece of art with their beauty.
Clementina proudly showed us the food in her house…and I not meaning just a sample…we saw all of the food. It consisted of some tomatoes, onions, dried fish caught from the Lake, and some chuchitos (basic corn tamales). Please take a moment to picture that this is ALL of the food in your house…can you? I still have a hard time imagining it…and I have seen it many times in the homes I have visited in Guatemala. While I would be scared silly if this was all I had to serve my family, Clementina proudly showed us how she wraps the chuchitos in the corn leaves. At one point during the morning, little Karina (with her rotten teeth that may have never seen a toothbrush) ran out of the home compound. Very shortly she came back with an apple that she had picked from a tree and started eating it. There is no wasting food. Makes me think about what I leave on my plate or throw away from the refrigerator at the end of the week…
While we had been visiting with the family, my dad (John) and my husband (Matt), had been building the family an ONIL stove with a Mayan Families Staff member. Again, this seems like a simple deed, but to me it was very special. You see, my dad had a stroke six months before the trip. We didn’t know if he would be able to travel with us…and we didn’t know for sure what his capabilities would be. In the end, the stove building was a form of cognitive therapy and a test of his memory. For me, it was good to see him using his hands and mind – something he has done over and over throughout the years.
For the family, the ONIL stove is a great gift…from saving their lungs, helping their backs, and protecting from burns. It was special to see the joy on their faces as they lit it for the first time. It was special to see my dad playing with Karina, as they both looked into the stove or as Dad taught Karina and Elvis to make rabbit ears. It was special as we watched as they put what would be their first meal on the stove. To give you an idea of what the kitchen looked like, the room has a dirt floor. The ceiling is lamina (tin). There are some walls made of wood…lots of open spaces between the logs. One wall was made of concrete blocks. One and a half walls were made from an old, political vinyl sign…what resourcefulness. There were wooden shelves that held all of the dishes and pots. The food hung from the ceiling in a small, plastic, red basket. The sink was across the yard probably about 40 feet away. And now there was an ONIL stove.
As we were nearing the end of our visit at the home, we figured out that Clementina, Karina, and Elvis were going back to the preschool and community center with us. To me, this was the icing on the cake for me…because we were there to serve their family, but Clementina serves her community and visitors in a special way. At this moment, I remembered Clementina from the previous year when I had seen her at the dance. She serves her community by voluntarily teaching the children of El Barranco the Mayan dances and traditions. So, it was all coming full circle…we are both recipients, as we are both servers! How absolutely cool!
The Walk
We knew we were running late to get to the community center. The others (our group members and the community of El Barranco) were probably waiting for us. So we loaded up fast at this point. We started off through the cornfields, watching the clouds rolling in. We passed turkeys and men working with machetes in the fields. Though I was watching, my mind was elsewhere.
My heart was very heavy, as I knew the time had finally come. As I walked along the rutted dirt path, I shared the news I had received earlier in the morning from my father-in-law in Florida. One of my dad’s closest friends had passed away. I will always remember that walk through El Barranco’s cornfields… It “just doesn’t make sense,” is the phrase that came from that walk…and was relevant to the world around us in Guatemala…as it was to death of a beloved friend.
Chaos
When we got to the community center…there was chaos…as is so typical of Guatemala. Life can be so simple, but at times it can also be chaotic. There were people everywhere. Some people were getting donations we had brought. Some were packing up the supplies we had brought. Others were getting chairs out for us to sit on. Pine needles were being put out as a sign of respect for our group members. I saw Clementina, Elvis, and Karina across the yard talking with friends and getting ready for the dancing. Tom, Allison, Matt, & Josie were playing soccer with the local boys.
Dancing
Then the dancing began. We were treated to traditional Mayan dances, infused with the smell of incense, notes of music, bright colors of traditional clothing, and heritage. We watched the dance to honor corn. We laughed during the monkey dance as we were offered bananas and had “bugs” picked off of us. We watched with respect of the traditional dance. We cheered for little Karina, the youngest dancer of the troupe. Our family held hands and cried during the hunting dance. You see, there was a “stuffed” armadillo being hunted…and though that may not have had significance to everyone…it did to us. Our friend that had just passed away had been on an important mission about a year ago to capture some armadillos that had been digging up his yard. I don’t know if he ever got them, but we all sat and thought of him.
As we watched the dancing, the clouds continued to roll in and we knew it was imminent for them to erupt in a torrent of rain. Quickly we ran for cover under the roofline…amongst the mass of bodies all crammed together. As we said our good byes – including a special one to Clementina and Karina, our hosts treated us to canned soft drinks – a luxury item. We ran for the vans waiting to take us back down to Panajachel where our hotel was. Thankfully, we didn’t need to ride in the back of the pickup trucks on the way down – though we definitely got close up and personal with our friends in the van. J
The short way home through Sololá had opened up, but it was only to be open for a couple of hours as there was the continued threat of mudslides. As we wound our way down the steep road, we passed where the main mudslide was, along with a boulder in the road that was the size of our van.
Gifts of the Day
To sum up our group’s day we:
- · passed out 150 chickens,
- · installed 6 ONIL stoves in El Barranco,
- · watched the cultural Mayan dances,
- · installed a slide and swingset at the preschool,
- · danced with the children of the preschool,
- · did a photo craft with 60+ students,
- · served 100’s of people,
- · saw examples of beauty in the face of poverty,
- · identified special traits and skills in those that we sometimes feel are so different,
- · strengthened relationships amongst our group,
- · grieved a friend,
- · wondered about what made the difference in that we were born into a life of privilege, while others were not,
- · found the similarities and beauty in the people that we met,
- · and made meaningful connections…
Some would say we were being generous to Karina’s family by installing an ONIL stove for her family, but I would say they were so generous to us on July 14th, 2011…and it will be a day that lives on in my memory and pictures.
Photos, handprint pictures – both common things in the United States of America. Believe it or not I took over 3,000 photos during our trip to Guatemala. J On the other hand, a family is lucky to have 1 picture of their child in Guatemala. When you go into a home, if there is a picture, it is a 4”x6” unframed photo. The edges are curling up and the colors are fading due to exposure from the weather. However, it is hung up in a place of honor – and normally one of just a handful of personal momentos in the home.
The second craft was organized by our volunteer, Nan. She had found some canvases and brought lots of paint - and baby wipes. (We always have to think about if we will have access to certain resources – such as clean water.) Many of our volunteers helped the preschoolers with their masterpieces. We painted their hand yellow and placed it on the upper edge as a sun. We then painted their hand green so they would have 5 flower stems. Last the kids could choose the color they wanted their flowers to be – roja, azul, amarilla, rosada… (red, blue, yellow, pink…). 
What was also great was that the 8 children that were on the trip had the opportunity to serve. For example, some tied on aprons. Others helped mount pictures on the foam and then helped the preschoolers put the foam stickers on their photo frames. Other times the kids helped paint the preschoolers’ hands….and then others wiped their hands clean with baby wipes so their clothes stayed clean. All in all, it was fun for both sets of kids – whether they live in the US or Guatemala!
